Introduction
About Moet
About us
Recent Sailing Adventures and Photos
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Solomon Islands 2002
Here we are in the Solomon Islands, one week before Christmas, and the temperature
is 80 degrees. It's only 7.30 in the morning. This place is seriously hot.
After day long tropical downpours in Vanuatu we have reached the lazy,
palm encircled lagoons of the Solomons where the sun beats down all day, and
all the people and animals seek the shade of a coconut tree. This must be
one of the most beautiful places in the world. The lagoon is pristine, tiny
islets all around, there is a surf break around the corner, the anchorage is
sheltered, there is a bamboo thatched bar on the nearest island and we are
here with 2 other boats, both friends of ours we met in New
Zealand. We are 3 out of only 7 boats that sailed to the Solomons this year.
That's compared to the several hundred sailing through Fiji and New
Caledonia. There are no tourists. This is pretty remote.
We arrived in the Solomon islands in November, only 20 hours sailing from
the Torres islands in Vanuatu, and since we checked out of customs over a
week before this it didn?t really feel as if we were going to a completely
new country. How nice not to have a lengthy passage to get somewhere new!
Not to feel completely exhausted and dirty and salty but just only a little
bit sleepy and a little bit wet. And not to have to sit around and wait for
island officials to come and quarantine the boat, but to be welcomed by a
fleet of canoes and the villagers paddling by. Although the sail was only
an overnighter we definitely arrived in a new place - the first glimpse of
the settlement and we knew this was a different country. The houses were
built on raised platforms and looked instantly sturdier and larger than the
Vanuatu type. Likewise with the canoes; thicker, wider hulls and no
outrgigger, just a single hull with a beautifully carved paddle. I snapped
away with my camera to add to my study of Pacific seacraft. The best
sailing vessel yet was a small canoe, single manned and sailed by a
triangular sheet made up entirely from old umbrellas! And it worked pretty
good too, though it wouldn?t sail into the wind.
After the now common practice of inviting aboard the welcoming committee
with cups of tea and home baked cookies we had lunch before going to shore.
And lunch was quite an event in itself since half of the lunch had begun to
eat the other half. It makes me shudder just recalling it! A scene of utter
carnage, the 8 coconut crabs that had sailed with us from the Torres had
turned into horrific cannibalistic monsters - two had escaped from their
chains and had turned their claws and jaws to their companions. Coconut
crabs are huge, a rare delicacy, served only in the finest restaurants where
customers are charged a substansial price. We traded a kilo of rice and a
cassette tape for ours. They have to be stabbed through the head to be
killed, but even after this they can move around for an hour afterwards,
they?re tough creatures. But they taste wonderful. We had two on the first
occasion, and liked them so much we got 8 more. Unfortunately not all 8
were still with us by the time we were anchored in Vanikolo. We opened the
bucket and there were the remains of 4 delimbed, stinking, festering crabs
and the 2 escapees munching happily on their flesh. It was really rather
grim and not what we wanted to deal with after a sleepness night at sea,
like a scene from Braindead or something; but Anna, Rob and Frans dealt with
it admirably, albeit with occasional shrieks and grimaces of disgust.
Understandable really. We should have woken Nils up to get the footage on
film! And I will add that it was hardly as satisying eating them after
witnessing such brutality; we half expected them to come alive on our plates
and declare mutiny on the ship!
So after lunch we went to shore, bringing with us a small bottle of rum,
after receiving a letter for 'mister frances', welcoming us to the village
and asking for a present of 'strong liquor'. After hearing reports of
Solomon islanders being hostile, theiving and boarding boats with machetes
we got a pleasant surprise. Vanikolo island hadn?t had a yacht visit for a
whole year, so the whole village was out in full force to greet us. Faithful
(yes, his real name) was the letter writer asking for the liquor and a very
gentle, well spoken man. He was standing as a candidate in the provincial
elections and showed us around the village. When we got to the river we
asked who lived on the other side. 'People from Tikopia?' (pronounced like
Utopia) said Faithful; 'They are Polynesians'. Which explained their
appearance. While Faithful and his village looked like the Melanesians we
had seen in Vanuatu and Fiji, these Tikopians had a distinctive Asian
appearance, fairer skin, more delicate features, and they were far less shy
and much more giggly and high spirited than the more reserved Melanesians.
'Do the villagers mix?' I asked Faithful who replied that they did not.
They spoke a different language and had different customs. We are friends he
said. But when I asked if there was any trouble between the villages he
smiled and said 'Sometimes. There are many Tikopians over here illegally.'
I wondered to myself what he would do about that if he won the provincial
elections, and decided if Melanesian officialdom was anything to go by,
probably nothing. We were paddled over to the other side by a very cheeky
and excitable Tikopian boy and greeted by many smiling giggling faces. More
houses on stilts and well built canoes, but the inside of the houses was a
surprise. For a tiny village, over 100 miles by sea to the nearest shop
these houses were full of stuff (in sharp contrast to the Melanesian
village) - good quality tilly lamps, fabrics, flippers and masks and a range
of other goods. They were certainly more entrepreneurial than their
Melanesian neighbours, collecting sea cucumbers to sell to Honiara, the
capital.
Being in this anchorage where they haven't seen a yacht for a long time
makes me aware of how just a few visitors from a country can really infuence
and shape islanders impressions of the outside world. All day long we have
had visits from villagers in canoes eager to check us out (we were planning
to go to shore ourselves but the torrential rain kind of dissuaded us) so we
have been talking and making endless cups of tea and cordial. Peter (the
chief's brother) told us stories of old warriors and traditions of the island
as he spoke through red betel stained teeth. He then said how much he liked
us. 'Some people on the yacht, they tell us to go away' he made a shooing
motion with his hands. 'They are not nice like you people. They don?t let
us come to the boat.' We explained that there has been many stories
circulating among cruisers about attacks in the Solomons - boats being
boarded at night by 5 men with machetes, people killed, women raped,
equipment stolen, so that may be why people tell the islanders to go away,
for they are afraid. I also thought, but didn?t say, because it would be
difficult for Peter to understand, that many people are so precious about
their boats that they don?t like unwelcome hands on the fibreglass they have
been so carefully polishing. What we have to realise is that every
encounter we have is shaping the attitudes of the islanders towards
subsequent boats that come in. If a yachtie is hostile, then the islanders
will not be so friendly to the next yacht in the bay. We try to leave a
happy wake behind us so that the next boat to arrive will be treated as well
as we have been. And in turn, we are treated better for being welcoming to
those first canoes. Peter has invited us to the ordination of a priest in
the next village where there will be an all day celebration and feast - this
woudn't have happened if we had told people not to touch our boat! Peter
said that there were fines in his village of 100 dollars if anyone stole
anything from a yacht, even just a piece of rope. These really are some of
the kindest and most welcoming people we have met - and there were those in
Fiji who thought we were crazy to come here! It is such a shame that fear
blunts people to some of the most unique experiences.
The more remote a place, the more welcoming the reception. The Banks
islands in Vanuatu are out of the usual cruising track but an excellent
place to sail. We arrived in the bay under sail and were greeted by tribal
calls from the shore (we all called back in response) and 3 canoes paddling
alongside as we dropped anchor. Chief Henry and Chief Johnston came aboard
and invited us to hear the ladies of the village perform water music. This
is the only place in Vanuatu (and probably the entire world) to do such a
thing and we weren't quite sure what to expect. We went to the village and
first smoked some pure leaf tobacco with Chief Johnston (very smooth, strong
flavour), then we followed the women down to the river whereby they waded
in, fully clothed, and began slapping the water into a frenzy. It sounded
incredible, like a complete drum kit with deep bass notes and high top
slapping and the women yelling and whooping. It sounds hard to believe, but
6 women standing in the river splashing about actually sounded pretty damn
good. And it was definitely music. Not that easy either, as afterwards we
all climbed in and tried it but all it sounded like was 6 people splashing
about in the water. Oh well, we?ll keep practicing... We returned the
gesture and brought the guitars to the village one evening with Shiralee,
our friends who were sailing with us. We drank kava and played our songs,
then Chief Johnston and the village boys played some island songs. One very
shy teenager had an obvious talent for the guitar, so Frans began teaching
him some reggae and blues rhythms. The next morning Chief Johnston came to
the boat and said the village had made a story about us. When we asked why
he replied that it was the first time the white man had come to the village
to make music. We felt very honoured. Moet secures her reputation as the
good time boat taking the party with her around the Pacific!
It has been great fun sailing with Shiralee. There are 4 on board their
catamaran, plus Bugger the dog. Suddenly we have a party wherever we go.
It has great rocking up in an anchorage together. The locals don?t quite know
what to make of it, 10 people on 2 smallish boats, all under 35 - none
married, not related, they can?t quite understand it or place it in the
context of their own social networks. Here, everyone is cousin-brother, or
uncle, or sister. No one is an outsider, everyone is part of an extensive
kin network with all the security and responsibiity that this brings.
Every time we go to a new island we are in for a surprise. Every village is
so different and the people too - in the way they react to you and to each
other. In the Santa Cruz group Pigeon island was a favourite. We dived on
the reefs surrounding the bay and windsurfed and kitesurfed in the
protective lagoon. The island was the size of a small village green, and
it was owned by an old English lady who had sailed there in the 1940's.
Diana (a former Vogue model and actress) and her husband Tom Hepworth left
England during the war with a small set of rations onboard their 70 foot
cutter towards the Caribbean. After working for the government in Panama
they sailed across to the Pacific and set up the copra trade between Vanuatu
and the Solomons. Diana had many stories to tell. She built her house on
Pigeon island herself, while her husband 'did the paperwork'. The old
school house, which was built to educate her children, is rented out to
travellers bold enough to make it this far. The author Lucy Irvine stayed
here for a year and wrote her book ?Faraway' which includes a few chapters
on the Hepworths. Diana said 'Lucy is a lovely girl, but I don?t like the
book.' Apparently there are many misrepresented facts about her life. It
is a shame for she is a remarkable, strong lady who has led an amazing life,
which should really be celebrated rather than criticised. For those
interested in the place there is a website you can visit:
http://www.riverbendnelligen.com/pigeon.html
I've written a lot more these past few weeks as the trip has progressed. As
we?ve got to know each other on board and become more comfortable around
each other there has been more time for reflection. It feels like a lot
more time has passed than actually has - as it has been filled with so much.
The crew are coping well with the new surroundings and the daily trials of
life at sea. There are many challenges on a boat - storms, being becalmed,
engine failure, sails ripping, running out of water, maggots invading the
food supplies (well, mainly the flour); plus the continual motion while
sailing and sharing a small space with complete strangers. It?s a great
adventure, but it?s not always easy. Even in paradise. There are
mosquitos, and coral cuts and dodgy drinking water and clothes going mouldy
and no shops to buy coffee when you've run out. But that is also what is so
attractive about this lifestyle - you are completely dependent on your own
resources. The engine breaks, Frans fixes it. The sails rip, I repair
them. We run out of water, we catch the rain. There are maggots in the
flour, we eat them anyway. (Well, protein is hard to come by sometimes!)
This is very much a wind and solar powered life. The sun charges our
batteries, the wind gets us from place to place and the sea gives us our
food, with a little help from our lucky lure.
It is a simple, healthy and self-reliant way of life and I like it very
much.
We've been lucky enough to see some custom dances and music in Vanuatu and
the Solomons. One was a fundraising event by the Ambae islanders for their
cultural centre, another an evening exchange in Loselava village dancing
circle, with custom dances and string bands, then Shiralee and Moet
performing their music, and the third was part of the ordination festival on
Vanikolo island. This event was excellent - feasting on turtles and pork
and many traditional dances.
Now that we're here, at Lola island, Vonavona lagoon, we have decided to
stay here until after New Year. Our ambitious plans to reach Micronesia by
January have been replaced by the unhurried influence of the tropics. We
found so much that we enjoyed in Vanuatu and the Solomons that it seemed
silly to leave a place just to stick to a schedule. Cruising is very much a
spontaneous lifestyle where opportunites arise day to day and plans are made
to be changed. Besides, the crew knew it was the rainy season in Papua New
Guinea and after the 10 day rain cloud over Vanuatu were happy just to be in
a place where the sun was shining and there was beer to drink! It is perfect
here, we have met up with our friends, there is a surf break just around the
corner and we?ve got a big party for Christmas. Unfortunately Shiralee
didn?t sail with us but went North to Kiribati.
We?ve covered a distance of about 1700 sea miles since we left Fiji, which
equals about 17 days at sea (more for us as we were becalmed for 5 days) if
you take it all together. The last passage from Santa Cruz to Gizo was a
long one, as the winds were averaging about 5 knots or less most of the time
and we weren't getting anywhere. Passage making is an unusual experience
for the newcomer and even many hardened sailors admit it?s their least
favourite part of cruising. An overnight sail, or a sail started at 4.00am
is fun, but when a sail lasts 3 days or more and becomes a passage a strange
form of malaise sets in over the crew. A kind of reluctant apathy, as if an
invalid who wants to be active but is confined to the sick bed. Even the
simplest task, such as getting a glass of water, requires great planning and
concentration. Move from seat - balance - open cupboard - make sure
nothing falls out - hold on so you don?t fall over - walk to tap -
balance... see what I mean? It tires you out just thinking about it! So
days at sea are spent very lazily, sleeping, reading, moving when the wind
changes trying to find a comfortable spot. And talking about food
(generally beer, pizza and icecream) and other indulgencies we want as soon
as we reach land. Clean clothes! A fresh water shower! A non-moving bed!
We have a rota system for cooking and watch keeping and every day someone
bakes bread and cookies - chocolate brownies and banana cake being the top 2
favourites at the moment.
Time becomes a misplaced concept at sea. After 3 days on the ocean it is
difficult to know how much time has passed - you sleep in snatches and are
awake on watch in deepest night and the endless swells are never changing
that all becomes one long blur of sea and sky. It is an existence in itself.
You forget you had a life before and find it hard to contemplate one
after. It exists outside of time and is its own complete world. A blue
world where small and lovely things can happen. The highlights of the day
may be seeing a whale or a dolphin, or a star rising, and they are the only
events which distinguish one day from another. The ocean certainly makes
you aware of the fragility of life and how small you actually are. Looked
on from above our sailing boat would be no more than a grain of sand in a
vast ocean where the landmasses look no more than isolated rocks. Passage
making is a humbling experience, and as you realise this it becomes easy to
let go of your troubles when you can put them in this perspective. It gives
you a sense of the enormity of the universe and also its simple, if
sometimes terrible, beauty.
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